
A long story about a short trip 2/14/2010
They say the best laid plans often go awry, but fortunately that means that they often don't. If you know much about me and my wife you know that we love to travel on roads and routes that we have never been on before, and this story is an example of why. Last year we were headed home from Salinas and decided to take the route over Panoche Pass (it's the one south of Pacheco Pass). As we dropped into the foothills on the Valley side, we came upon
Mercey Hot Springs, nestled in the only stand of trees for miles around. Naturally curious and easily distracted, we stopped in to check it out and decided we should make a point of coming back to stay someday.
We didn't really have plans for the weekend, but we also didn't have the kids. Weeks of rain and uncharacteristically grey skies had given Nicole a severe camping bug but our normal spur-of-the-moment places are all in the mountains and under much snow, so where to now? I had a rare flash of brilliance..."how about that crazy little hot spring we passed last year?". A few hours drive at most, and the idea of soaking in a hot tub all day was sounding pretty good to both of us. We made reservations for a campsite, spent most of Saturday getting our gear organized, and I waffled on driving the VW long enough for Nicole to get her car cleaned out really nicely (you're welcome honey).
We woke up Sunday well rested and (mostly) ready to go. We had hoped to be on the road by 8:00 but it took a bit longer to get out than we expected and by the time we stopped at the corner for ice it was already after 9:00. No worries. As soon as we were rolling down Highway 41 we were both glad we had taken the Campmobile. There is some amount of faith involved in cruising an almost 30-year old vehicle off to points unknown, but this machine is pretty funky and cool. The iPod chipped in with a random Grateful Dead song and we chipped in with big dumb smiles. Yeah, life is good.
We hit Fresno and jogged over to 99 just long enough to take the first offramp and a 2-lane road that would get us almost all the way to Mercey. There are hundreds of miles of roads like this in the San Joaquin valley. It was a bit foggy and there wasn't much to see unless you count Firebaugh. We did pass a carnival storage yard, full of scary looking carny rides and cotton candy stands, and what looked like a fox hunt getting started pretty close to our destination. Nicole tells me they don't actually hunt foxes anymore but rather a fox-pee-soaked rag that gets dragged on the ground. This is good news for the foxes.
By the time we had passed I5 and the fox hunters we had outpaced the fog, and we rolled into Mercey Hot Springs to a beautiful sunny day barely two hours after we left home. Now, when we stopped here the first time to scope the place out it was pretty deserted and almost spooky, but today it was bright and inviting and well stocked with staff and guests. Our campsite wasn't ready yet but we passed some time talking to the woman in the office, whom we hit it off with right away as she was Scottish (by ancestry at least) and I was wearing both a
Utilikilt and a t-shirt from the
Celtic Festival in Grass Valley last year (she had been to that show before).
In operation in some form since the early 1900's, the resort is a combination of hospitality, comfort and funk, with many of the original buildings and cabins still on the grounds. A small, 5 site campground nestled in a cottonwood stand right next to the main deck, a small RV park area and a half dozen cabins provide lodging, but the real draw is of course the hot springs, and the facilities do not disappoint. There is a large pool, heated by the springs but comparatively cool, a sauna, beautiful bathrooms with hot spring showers, and rows of individual soaking tubs with hot and cold faucets. Near the cabins is a bath house with indoor tubs, and another enclosed deck with more tubs for the "clothing optional" crowd. One of the unique things about Mercey is that they aren't on any grids; power is generated by solar panels and fry-oil-burning generators, and even the phones are satellite. Kudos to them!
When our campsite was ready we pulled in and got set up. We are expert campers and this takes us no time at all especially when we are by ourselves and in the VW. We had a quick lunch of leftover cioppinno (Nicole's homemade and very delicious) and decided to start off by enjoying the sunny day with a hike. We headed off after consulting the office and were quickly struck by how green it all was. There were even wildflowers sprouting already. Once we got out of sight of the grounds we truly felt like we were in the middle of nowhere, green hills rolling everywhere broken up only by an occasional ravine or flood wash. If you are into bird watching this would be a good place; we saw many birds including 2 (we think) Peregrine falcons and 2 pairs of ravens. Bird sounds were everywhere and we listened to a song of peals, croaks, caws and chirps all the way back to the campsite. As we walked back in, there was a couple peering into a pine tree by the old hotel, watching an owl perched there. These are the only trees for miles and birds take full advantage; at one time while we were there that same pine tree had no less than 8 owls in it.
OK, enough bird watching and wandering around. Time to get to the hot water. We hit the bathroom/shower to rinse off and change. The showers are fed just by the hot spring and the temp was perfect. The water had a typically sulphurous reek to it but it wasn't unpleasant at all. Nicole would later inadvertently invent a word for it by accidentally combining smelly and funky; the water was smunky. But smunky in a good way. There were a lot of bathers in the individual soaking tubs so we shared one for a while; being close is a sacrifice we are always willing to make. We met a guy from Newfoundland who was playing a guitar by the pool and he played us a great Celtic folk song (he had heard there was a guy in a kilt running around and that got us to talking). The rest of the afternoon was spent going from the tubs to the pool to the sauna in various order, and by the time we decided to go cook dinner we were really relaxed. Our campsite was literally just on the other side of the pool and we're pretty sure we made people hungry smelling steaks and veggies grilling. I got the curtains and the sleeping bags squared away while dinner was cooking and we enjoyed our meal by a nice fire. It doesn't get a lot better than this, all of our favorite things about camping with a kick-ass pool, sauna and spa tubs just steps away.
I do have to rant briefly about inconsiderate people. We've been a lot of places and seen our share of them, but we are always amazed at what people think is OK. Sitting down to dinner we hear one of the other campers fire up the engine of his RV. Why there was an RV in the tent spaces is not known, but what is known is that if the guy needed to charge his batteries he should have done it earlier in the day when there was noise and people weren't winding down. I don't get RV'ers that camp anyway; if you need a hotel on wheels you should save all of us campers the grief and just go to a hotel. The same guy had strung up floodlights that rivaled a streetlamp and was happily dumping his light pollution over everyone that wanted to stargaze anywhere near his "campsite". Another group over by the RV spaces had decided to fire up their RC airplanes...WTF? STFU and GTFO! (If you're a gamer you'll know what I mean, my apologies for the abbreviated profanity. If you're not a gamer just use your imagination). End of rant.
After dinner we played Milles Bornes and I enjoyed a rare win, a good old fashioned ass-kicking even. We headed back to the tubs and despite the floodlight pollution we had a great time laying back and looking at the sky. They say Mercey is a great place to come watch the meteor showers and we may plan on doing that in the fall. We did the tub, pool and sauna rotation again for a while and then headed for the funky comfort of the VW. We had had a great day doing many of our favorite things all at the same place and ended it by doing another one of them, curling up together and drifting off to sleep. Yeah, life is still good.
We slept in the next day until 9:30 or so, something we almost never do when we are camping. We did a quick breakfast of Irish oatmeal (quick cooking kind, not bad at all), did some preliminary organizing of camping stuff and then headed back for...the showers, hot tubs and pool. We stopped long enough to finish packing up and vacating the campsite at the appointed hour of noon and then went for one last round with the deliciously smunky water. By the time we had gotten dressed, chatted with the Scottish lady again, evangelized the virtues of the
Utilikilt not only to her but another woman who really wanted one for her job as a rigger, and petted the hot springs kitty, we were so completely relaxed and happy that is was hard to say goodbye and head back home. But it was off for home we went.
We took a different route home, deciding to go through Kerman to try out a taqueria there. Taquerias are like a holy grail for us, we will seek them out and try even the most dangerous looking ones on our quest for great tacos. The last time we had travelled in this area was the trip where we discovered Mercey in the first place, and we had stopped at a very auth, very tasty and very questionable place in Firebaugh (lived to tell about it). Nicole had scoped things out and found a place in Kerman...imagine our shock when we pulled up and found out it was a chain!
Robertito's has taco places all over the Valley, but if you know much about me and my wife you know we strive to never, ever eat at a chain. But, seeing as Kerman is pretty small and we were pretty hungry we decided to give it a chance. We were not unhappy, the tacos were good, the portions were (too) large and they even had spicy carrots and peppers. We left feeling OK about compromising our "no chain" rule. One note about this part of the trip: we travelled past many, many orchards on the way to Kerman and there were dozens of beekeeper boxes out. We sadly collected a number of bees on the windshield and wished we could have avoided that. Bees are hurting and we didn't want to add to their troubles.
The rest of trip was a comfortable cruise in the VW...it's old and has a lot of "character" but we were pleased with how it made the trip and we only had to use a couple of turnouts on the way up the foothills back to Coarsegold. We chugged up the driveway and rolled to a stop, still as relaxed and happy as we were when we left Mercey. We had had a great trip...because we hadn't been afraid to take a new route on some other trip or be afraid to stop and check out something that looked funky and cool. We never would have discovered the place if we did the same thing every time. Take the road less travelled; it may just lead to some of the best times of your life :)
Details:
Mercey Hot SpringsUtilikilts - the most comfortable garment I have ever worn. Buy something from the
store :)
Robertitos